How to Prune Apple Trees
by: Paul Curran

In this article you will find out how to prune apple trees. (One of several articles from the author on how to prune fruit trees). Pruning apple trees can be done several ways. This operation often causes concern, and considerable variation in ideas exists on the subject, generally. Concerning bush trees in the small garden, the following points should be borne in mind. First, one may ask, "what happens if no pruning is done at all"?

The answer is that too much growth may be made, the branches will be too congested and, although fruit will be borne, it may be smaller than it should be. Then, the stage may be reached when growth will slow down, and too many fruit buds will be formed in relation to the new growth. In short, one has to aim at a balance between wood (shoot) growth and fruit bud formation.

If very hard pruning is done after the early years more wood growth than is needed may be produced and fruiting will be delayed. One method of how to prune apple trees to avoid, is the cutting off of all the new growth at the same level each year, i.e. beheading a tree at a given height. This only encourages more wood growth, and gives the tree little chance to make fruit spurs and fruit buds.

How to prune apple trees - Pruning of a young tree:

To start with the pruning of a young tree, after planting, this may have 3 or 4 main branches. The 1-year-old wood (the newest growth) should be cut back half way, to an outward-facing bud. Strong shoots may be cut back less hard, and weaker branches rather harder. Next autumn, or winter, the new growth that arises from this cutting back is treated similarly. Keep only the best two or three shoots that arise from the original branches (leaders) and cut out any shoots that cross the centre of the bush, the aim being to encourage an outward framework of branches, i.e. cup shaped.

The main shoots should be treated similarly for the following years. Meanwhile, the main branches will be furnished with side shoots (laterals) and all these that grow out from the tree (outward that is) can be left their full length. Those growing inwards should be cut back each winter to two buds from the base.

In connection with how to prune apple trees, in the early years, the question of whether fruit formed in the first season after planting should be left or removed, is often raised. If the tree is making good growth. I suggest that a few fruits be retained. To leave many may cause a check in growth.

How to prune apple trees - Regulated System:

A logical stage forward from no pruning is the method known as the Regulated System. This can be followed with standard trees, half standards and strong-growing bush trees, i.e. those on vigorous root stocks. Briefly, with established trees this entails only the removal of crowded or crossing branches, thinning out unwanted shoots, and taking out any dead wood. With this method on how to prune apple trees, sizeable branches have sometimes to be removed, and a pruning saw, with a curved blade is best used for this purpose. The cut surfaces of sawn off branches should be painted over with white lead paint to prevent entry of disease spores.

How to prune apple trees - Spur Pruning:

For established bush trees on the less-vigorous root stocks, the harder method of pruning, called Spur Pruning, is sometimes followed. This, however, is best modified to give a method called the Established Spur System. This is designed to encourage a system of fruiting spurs, close to the main branch-work, and is useful for weaker growing varieties in particular. New lateral growth from the branch frame work is pruned back to two or three buds from the branch. New growth will arise from these buds, which will in turn be pruned similarly the following year.

A spur system of fruit buds will be formed at the base of these shoots which will bear the fruit. These spur systems will need to be thinned out, as they begin to crowd the tree, in order to encourage new growth and reduce the amount of blossom. Some laterals growing towards the outside of the tree may be left to extend naturally; these will form fruit buds and bear the earliest fruit while the spur system is being formed.

Some varieties bear fruit on the ends of the shoots, tip bearers, as they are called, and it is essential to make provision for a certain amount of un pruned wood. These un pruned laterals may be cut back to fruit buds or spurs, when their length demands. In short this method on how to prune apple trees aims at a compromise between hard spur pruning and leaving some laterals un pruned.

How to prune apple trees - Renewal System:

From spur pruning, a further method has been evolved, called the Renewal System. This method which may at first appear complicated to the amateur is, in fact, a successful way of controlling wood and fruit formation to the best advantage. It consists of shortening a proportion of the annual growth in order to produce more wood, leaving some unpruned to form fruit buds. These should be well spaced out over the branch length, to ensure that fruit will not be crowded. The number of laterals, or new growths, to be shortened, depends on the variety and growth of the apple trees.

A strongly growing tree can carry more fruit, therefore perhaps half of the laterals could be shortened and half left untouched. On a weaker tree, which tends to form fruit buds at the expense of new growth, 2 in 3 of the laterals may be pruned. In this system the individual characteristics of the tree need to be catered for; there is no hard and fast rule. Laterals which are pruned to 2 or 3 ins. in length, will form new wood, which is treated as before, either to be left, or shortened in due course.

How to prune apple trees - Cordon Trees:

Basically, these are Spur Pruned; that is, all the young growth, each year, is shortened back to within 2 or 3 buds of the base, where fruit buds will form and a spur system is built up. Space, or lack of it, often dictates that this hard cutting back has to be done, to keep the trees within limits.

A modified system is to leave some of the longer laterals full length and curl them round in a circle, tying them firmly with fillis string to make a loop. These loops will form fruit buds along their length in subsequent years, and may be left intact so long as there is room for them. As others are retained, the oldest may be cut out. Espalier trees may be treated in the same way as Cordons.

How to prune apple trees - Biennial:

Bearing Some varieties of apples tend to produce a heavy crop one year and a light one the next. If one has several trees, this tends to balance out, as all the trees may not have the same "on or off" tendency. If one has only 1 or 2 trees however, biennial bearing could cause a total loss of crop one season, and the trees would be likely to produce a heavier crop than usual the next year, and a lighter than average the following season.

Where this is happening, before the expected cropping year, pruning of new wood should be very light, and spur systems should be reduced. A proportion, say one third, of the blossom should be removed at flowering time. In other words aim at reducing the over-heavy crops. Finally, when you have learnt how to prune apple trees, all pruning should be done when the trees are dormant, i.e. in autumn or winter.

About The Author

Paul Curran is CEO of Cuzcom Internet Publishing Group and webmaster at Trees-and-Bushes.com, providing a range of quality plants, trees, bushes, shrubs, seeds and outdoor garden products.

Website: http://www.trees-and-bushes.com

Caring For Fruit Trees

By: Aurel Radulescu

As their name implies, fruit trees are simply trees that bear fruit. This may include apple, cherry, citrus (i.e., orange and lemon), durian, mango, morello cherry, pear, peach, nectarine and plum. In addition some nut bearing trees, such as walnuts, are also considered to be fruit trees. Virtually all trees of flowering plants will produce fruit which, in this case, is used to define trees that produce fruit that can be used as human food.

In order for fruit trees to remain healthy and continue producing quality fruits, they must be pruned for growth control purposes and also to remove dead or diseased wood. In addition, pruning fruit trees may also stimulate the growth of flowers and/or fruit buds. The best time for pruning, economic wise, is early in the season as the buds begin to break. At this point, the grower can simply pinch off the soft tissue with his/her finger. The problem that many growers face is neglecting to properly care for their fruit trees after planting. Careful attention to pruning will have the greatest impact on fruit trees and their productivity.

Did you know that formative pruning of apple and pear trees should occur during the dormant winter months ranging between November and March and should be done during the tree's early years of life? This will help fruit trees to develop a strong frame that is capable of holding the weight of fruit as it begins to grow in later years. Other fruit trees, such as cherry, plum and gages should not be pruned during the winter.

From the age of five, fruit trees need to be pruned annually. The process of renewal pruning depends greatly on the tendency of most apple and pear trees to produce flower buds. Fruit trees that have strong laterals on the outer part of the tree, which also has room for growth, are best suited for this technique.

The regulatory pruning of fruit trees is performed on the tree as a whole and is done in an effort to keep both the tree and its environment healthy. Regulatory pruning entails keeping the center open so that air can circulate, removing dead or diseased wood and preventing branches from becoming crowded while also preventing the crossing of branches.

Fruit trees are popular among farmers who believe in growing their own food, but also for those who wish to resell fruits for profit. Whether fruit trees are your source of health food or extra cash, taking the time to care for them in such a way that will promote both their productivity and livelihood will be well worth the effort. For those who are truly creative and want to get the most use of their fruit trees, there is nothing better than creating a custom fruit basket to be given as gifts for holidays, birthdays and as your contribution to family gatherings.

Whatever the purpose for your fruit trees, nourish them with everything that they need in order to thrive and, when the time comes, they will produce a product capable of doing the same for you.

Read more about tree branches, removing old trees and many other fruit trees resources on http://www.plantingfruittree.com/

Grow Your Own Garden Fruit Trees for Real fruit

By: Colin Clifford

When visiting a supermarket have you never wished you had a few garden fruit trees? Have you ever noticed how purchased fruit these days is bit inconsistent in quality? Sometimes it will be fine, but mostly is tasteless, too hard or too soft. The pears are rock hard, you can push your fingers through the plums, and the peaches start growing mould before they are soft enough to eat.

Some of this has to do with forced growing and artificial fertilizers, and some on picking too early, and being left to ripen during shipping. Much of the foreign grown fruit is picked unripened, and then ripened in the ship's hold. This leads to fruit with the taste and texture of wet cardboard. Why not grow your own? It is both cheaper and better for you, and the taste is far superior to anything grown and shipped from thousands of miles away, and fed on who knows what.

Even a small garden can be used for growing fruit trees, and there are apples, peaches, pears, cherries and plums suitable for the smallest garden. And these are just a few of what is available that be grown in shapes suitable for training along fences and walls, and up garden mesh and netting. You don't need a massive orchard for garden fruit trees any more if you know how to train them properly, and what varieties are best for growing in your local conditions.

If your garden is susceptible to early frosts, you should purchase trees that flower later, or you will lose the flowers before they can develop into fruit. Irrespective of your conditions, you should be able to grow a selection of apples, pears, plums and so on and even apricots and peaches if you have a reasonable amount of sun. Even grapes can be grown in temperate climates.

You should buy your stock from a good supplier that knows what you need for the areas in which you live. It is always best to buy local, since if they can grow it then so can you. Many people travel to warmer climates and return with fruit trees that looked great in 35 degrees of sun, but are stunted in your chillier 25 degrees. You should choose a selection of fruits suitable for your climate, and at least two of each. There are some self-pollinating varieties of fruit around, but it is safer to have two trees - you also get more fruit! If you are purchasing more than one variety of each fruit, then make sure that their pollen is compatible. In fact if you are buying two trees for pollination, then they should be different species, but compatible with each other. Your supplier will have this information for you.

You should also check out the fruit provided by each and make sure that it is what you are looking for. You don't want a Bramley tree if you want a desert apple, and some plums are naturally sour while others are sweeter. The same is true of grapes, and some of the sweetest wines can come from very sour grapes. Make you're your vines are desert grapes, and not cultivated for winemaking unless they are also suitable for eating.

The rootstock is very important, because fruits trees are generally propagated on rootstocks. Depending on the rootstock, an apple tree can grow to 5 ft or 25 ft in height and spread. The size of the tree will be determined by the size of your garden, so you should check with your supplier what the eventual size will be.

When buying a fruit tree, keep in mind that the older tress can be hard to transplant, so try to get a tree no more than two years old. Don't purchase too young or you might have to wait some years for a fruit, and the best type of plant is a bare root plant rather than ones in containers. If your garden is small, then many species of most fruits are suitable for espalier, fans and cordons. In a small garden, the cordons take up least space and provide a good crop of fruit from a single supported stem. However, if you have a lot of fencing space, or can put up a few trellises, then fans and espaliers would make good use of that space. Most fruit trees can be grown in that form.

Irrespective of whether you grow the full sized trees, or in dwarf or trained form, garden fruit trees will provide you with fruit that is ripened on the tree and that tastes like fruit and not cotton wool. If you are careful with your source of supply, and ensure that your variety is suitable for your climate, then there is no reason why you should not be a successful fruit grower, independent of supermarkets for your fresh fruit.

Want to find that perfect Fruit tree for your garden then visit http://www.mygardencenteronline.com . Where you will find a full range of apple, pear, cherry, plum, apricot and a lot more other types of fruit trees.